1.
Just south of the equator,
in the extreme south-western corner of Uganda, a chain
of eight volcanoes rises to a height of 15 000 feet
and
straggles
in a ragged line across the border into the
Belgian Congo. This is one of the more grandiose
spectacles in Central Africa, and it is in many ways
a strange and disturbing
place. Approaching it from the Uganda side you emerge
quite suddenly on to the crest
of a mountain pass, and there, all at once, the scene
breaks out before you with the theatricality
of a curtain lifted from a stage. Mount Muhavura,
the first of the volcanoes, is a
perfect cone
with thick green jungle on its sides, and beyond this
one glimpses the outlines of other, loftier
peaks, usually with their
tops neatly cut off by a bank of heavy cloud.
The last two volcanoes on the Congo side are still
active, and all the floor of the valley below them
is dotted with black forbidding
patches of lava.
This is a region of landslides
and earth tremors
and nothing seems secure. Indeed, in recent years
still another volcano has burst out of a stretch of
level plain and has now risen to a height of six hundred
feet.
2.
For the most part the local African tribesmen live
in a damp soporific
heat around the lakes at the foot of the volcanoes,
and they seldom go up into the cold jungles and the
cloudy heights above; that area, the temperate
and sub-alpine
zone, has become the refuge
of one of the rarest of all wild animals in Africa,
the mountain gorilla.
3.
The
gorilla is something of a paradox
in the African scene. One thinks one knows him very
well. For a hundred years or more he has been killed,
captured and imprisoned in zoos. His bones have been
mounted in natural history museums everywhere, and
he has always exerted
a strong fascination upon scientists and romantics
alike. He is the stereotyped
monster of the horror films and the adventure books,
and an
obvious (though not perhaps strictly scientific) link
with our ancestral
past.