1.
We drove first to the foot of the mountains, and then
with one guide in front and the other behind we set
off on foot, along an uncompromising track that led
directly upwards to the saddle between Muhavura and
Mgahinga. A watercourse rushed down the mountain beside
us, a bright hot sun burst through the clouds, and
as we climbed the valley behind us spread out marvelously
below; beyond it range after range of hills rolled
away towards the Congo. But after the first few minutes
I gave up looking at any of these splendid things.
Instead I kept my head resolutely downwards, concentrating
upon the next step ahead. It seemed at times that
we were climbing almost perpendicularly. Pretty soon
we were in the bamboo belt. Bamboo grows on these
central African mountains in thin stalks from ten
to twenty feet high, and so thickly that it is often
impenetrable. One of the guides took his panga, a
broad hooked blade about eighteen inches long, and
cut me a walking stick. I suppose it helped, but already
I was getting beyond caring.
1)我们先开车到了山脚下,然后一个向导在前,一个向导在后,一行人动身沿着一条直接向上通到穆哈务拉及穆加欣加两山间鞍状部分的难走的小路步行而上。旁边一条小河从山上倾泻而下,酷热的骄阳穿过云层。随着我们向上攀登,山谷在身后奇妙地展开,谷外重重山丘起伏,一直向刚果延伸。但在头几分钟过去以后,我放弃了观赏这些壮丽的景象,只是坚决地低着头,集中地看着脚下的路。有时我们好像几乎是在垂直向上爬。不久我们来到了竹林带,在非洲中部山区竹子长得很细,有10—20英尺高,密得有时候无法穿过。一个向导拿出大砍刀来,这是一种刀片很宽、一头呈钩状的约十八英寸长的刀子,给我砍了一根拐杖,想来这有点用,不过此时我已经什么都觉得无所谓了。
2. Then at last after some
two hours or more we came out on a clearing and rested.
We were now just below 8 000 feet, and all around
us unexpected things were growing, banks of huge nettles,
orchids sprouting from the grass, plants like bulrushes
and those bright flame-coloured flowering reeds which
as children we used to call red-hot pokers. The bamboo
here had thinned out a little, and on the heights
of the two mountains above we could see the curious
productions of the alpine zones, giant heather, giant
groundsel and giant lobelias. Everything here was
giant size but reduced to the appearance of littleness
by the tremendous space around us. A vast cloud, shot
through with sunlight, was tearing off the crest of
Muhavura.
2)两个多小时以后,我们终于来到了一片林中空地,休息了下来。此时我们正好在快到八干英尺高的地方,周围长着各种意想不到的东西,一排排巨大的荨麻,草丛中抽发出兰花,长得像灯芯草的植物,还有那些我们小的时候叫作烧红了的拨火棍的有着鲜艳的火红颜色的开花的芦苇。这里的竹子长得稍稀了一点,我们可以看见在两山的最高处有高山带的奇特产物:巨型石南、巨型千里光和巨型半边莲。这儿一切都是巨型的,但在我们周围惊人的空间中显得微小。一大片漏洒着阳光的云正迅速笼罩住穆哈务拉的峰巅。