Five months and seven
countries later, I am still in Africa. It seems I have adopted
the African philosophy of "time" — a mere word which
holds absolutely no meaning. There are no schedules; the bus
leaves when it's full. A 120-mile ride can easily take eight
hours. And appointments revolve around generalities such as
"meet you in the morning," "around lunchtime"
or "sometime next week."
In the
rare event that an exact time is given, it is never to be
taken literally — to get the precise time, add three or four
hours. It doesn't take long to figure out that Africa beats
to a different drum. With a bit of patience, a thirst for
adventure and a desire to do things the African way, I am
learning its rhythm.
Often we ventured out into the unknown with nothing more than
a few vague directions: "Take the mini-bus for five or
six hours until you see some kind of brown sign on the side
of a road, walk down a dirt road to the water's edge, stand
next to a tree, yell across to the island and wait for someone
to collect you." Crazy, yes, but these "perfect"
directions led us to a night on a private island and a friendly
owner who became the first person to show us the true meaning
of the African philosophy "there's always room for one
more!" Delicious food, Namibian beer and a ride on his
boat at sunset — all generouslyin return.
Public transportation in Africa is an experience not to be
missed. Just when you think that a bus is filled to capacity
and there could not possibly be room for another passenger,
in walks a family of five. This is when you think there should
be an exception to the rule: "There's always room for
one more." The door is opened. People shift. Things are
rearranged. Space is forfeited. And discomfort is inevitable.
Patience is the key as laps are shared, jabs to the ribs are
ignored, pushing is accepted and bodies are sometimes pushed
halfway out the windows — all to make room for "just
one more!" One more man, one more woman, one more child,
one more piece of luggage and, yes, even one more animal.
Traveling allows me to be free. For the first time in my life
I have no set schedule, no detailed plan of action, no responsibilities.
I am enjoying the opportunity to experience different cultures
and to meet new and interesting people. I am constantly meeting
other travelers along the way and the greetings are predictable:
Where are you from? How long have you been traveling? What
did you do back in your home country?
Sometimes the conversations stop there and sometimes, well,
there's no predicting where they will lead. Discussions can
be as simple as a recommendation for a great backpackers'
place to stay, or conversations can move into more serious
topics like the meaning of life.
And you meet others who have somewhat different stories. Thorsten
from Germany fell in love with a Zambian woman dying from
AIDS. Every night he drinks himself to oblivion in order to
ease the pain. John is from England and had a depressing childhood.
He has come traveling in hopes of finding something as simple
as friends. We learn to be friends and confidants to complete
strangers. We offer advice when it's necessary and keep silent
when it's appropriate. With each encounter we walk away a
different person.
We travel through Africa and enjoy the sights, smells, tastes
and sounds that make this continent unique. We marvel at the
women who carry babies on their backs and huge bundles on
their heads. We engage in games with the young children who
sell us the eggs, shine our shoes and tempt us with baskets
of bananas. We watch them move from their role as adults back
children again, even if only for 15 minutes. We indulge into
in exotic foods like zebra, ostrich and crocodile but never
once forget that, to some, food is not an experience but,
rather, a matter of survival.
We watch the children
of a village dance with rhythm that can only be found in Africa,
and we can't help but wonder if we grew up here, would we
be able to move like them? We are left speechless
when we witness
the awe-inspiring
migration
of 2.5 million wildebeest
across the Serengeti
Plains. We see the smiles and laughter
that a simple camera can bring and understand that real communication
can exist even without a common language. And then, quite
simply, we learn to appreciate the graceful
gallop
of the giraffe,
the warmth
of the Indian
Ocean, the beat of the African drum and even the
African bus rides.
(801 words)
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