You could stock
a clothing store with articles named after people — Wellingtons,
Bluchers, Derbies, Macintoshes, Stetsons, Cardigans, even
Sam Brownes — but if you wanted the world to beat a path to
your door, you would have to stock Levi's, the universal garment
for men, women, and children of all ages, and from
the richest to the poorest. Even if you just called them blue
jeans.
And it all
started with a single pair of pants carved out
of a piece of tent canvas in the days of the California
gold rush by an industrious young immigrant named Levi Strauss.
Over the years, the business
founded on that pair of pants has generated more wealth than
any prospector ever took out of the gold fields,
and the story of Levi Strauss has become a part of the folklore
of mercantile America.
In 1850, Levi Strauss,
a 20-year-old German immigrant to the U.S., boarded a New
York sailing ship bound for the California gold rush. He arrived
in San Francisco with a small stock of dry goods, including
some rough canvas he intended to sell to miners for tents
and wagon covers.
Once ashore, he met a
prospector who asked Levi what he'd brought with him on the
boat. Levi Strauss pointed to his roll of canvas.
"You should have
brought pants," said the miner.
"Pants? Why pants?" asked the surprised newcomer.
"Pants don't wear
worth a hoot up in the diggings," came the reply.
"Can't get a pair strong enough to last."
That's when Levi got his
great idea.
San Francisco had been
settled for less than twenty years, and it had been ceded
to the United States only a few months before gold
was found. Within a year, the population of five or six hundred
multiplied ten times; and when Levi Strauss got there,
he found a turbulent lawless camp of gold-hungry
men.
There he made his first
pair of pants for one nameless but now famous prospector,
who was so pleased he talked up these "pants of Levi's."
With small capital,
but with a clear head, a willing and hopeful heart, he opened
up the house of Levi Strauss & Company as the head and
principal owner of which he remained until his death — nearly
forty-nine years.
When Levi Strauss began
specializing in pants, he decided to use a famous twilled
cotton cloth called serge de NÎmes, shortened
to denim,
which he had specially shipped in by the bale
from France. And they're now called jeans from the cloth named
for the city of Genoa.
Not liking the look of
it, Levi had the cloth colored with the indigo dye
that had been used for centuries, even before the
Christian era, for ritual coloring. The early Britons called
it woad and dyed their bodies with this same blue.
That could have heightened its symbolism for the
mystical teenagers of the 1960s. Today it is the standard
coloring for a universal garment.
As for the famous rivets,
they were the brain child of a widely traveled merchant named
Jacob Davis, with whom Levi Strauss formed a business partnership
in the 1870s.
The copper
rivets were protected by patents,
but Levi Strauss also created their pictorial
trademark
of two horses trying to pull a pair of pants limb
from limb. When Time Magazine marked the company's
100th anniversary on February 27, 1950, they recorded an anecdote
by Walter A. Haas, husband of one of Levi Strauss's grand-nieces.
"Now and then," he said, "some waggish
farmer actually hitches
up two horses and pulls a pair apart. Whenever that happens,
I always send the farmer
another pair."
The San Francisco Chronicle boasted,
"We are unable to think of any influence that radiated
outward from San Francisco to be compared with Levi's."
(628 words)
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